With nicknames like “Ski Town, U.S.A.” or “Adventure Capital of the West” out there, being a destination often involves some self proclamation. While these places can certainly live up to the hype, there’s something to be said for letting the trails do the talking.

Bellingham, Washington, a town of just under 100,000 residents situated in the northwest corner of the state, has taken this alternative approach. Although it gives off low-key college-town-meets-blue-collar vibes, its deep-rooted community of outdoor enthusiasts have long been putting in work to create a sublime playground of singletrack for all to enjoy. It’s this affable attitude and seemingly endless plethora of riding opportunities that have put Bellingham on the radar of mountain bikers everywhere.

With a long history of trailbuilding culture, stashes of fabled loam, and a handful of industry players within its city limits, there’s no denying Bellingham is a whirring hub that revolves around riding bikes. The laid-back attitude that defines the city’s subdued aura makes it a welcoming place for all. Just about any mountain biker you cross paths with will have a trail recommendation, post-ride swim spot suggestion, or a lauded watering hole they’ll insist should be your next stop. If you ask, listen, and reciprocate the respect locals have for their town, they might even let you in on a few well-kept secrets, too.

Riding

There’s a common Bellingham response when someone sees a bike on your car and asks where you rode: “Oh, just Galbraith.” The nonchalant way in which so many refer to this world-class backyard network might be maddening to outsiders. The truth is we are extremely spoiled by the variety, caliber, and accessibility of trails in our town. The network at Galbraith is incredible, and also the result of a decades-long effort by the Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition (WMBC) and a whole community of dedicated volunteers.

For most visitors, Galbraith is the first stop, and rightly so. The network has two main access points and respective summits, the “north side,” accessed via parking at Whatcom Falls Park and climbing up Birch Street, and the “south side,” reached by a short pedal down Galbraith Lane from a freshly expanded parking lot on Samish Drive. You can’t go wrong with either access point, and it’s relatively easy to connect the two sides for a multi-lap ride. 

A classic north side lap is climbing up Ridge Trail to Family Fun Center, before continuing on the road to the top of SST. Ride SST all the way to the bottom for 15 minutes of uninterrupted flow, peel right onto Orient Express for some high-speed, straight-lining fun, or find your way over to Mabel’s Monkey Wrench for endless swooping berms. A few ultra-worthy north side tangents are the Cedar Dust jumps and the Stinky Dual-uxe dual slalom track. For those in search of even more air time, Double Vision is a new, but instant classic jump trail intertwining a blue line and black line of progressive, flowy senders all the way down the mountain—look before you leap, and definitely ride it a few times. Most north-side rides end right down the street from DaVinci's Market (great sandwiches) and Lafeens Family Pride Donuts and Ice Cream (no explanation needed), so all you need to do is decide between savory or sweet.

For those keen on a little more flow, the south side has plenty of options for riders of all abilities. After cruising in via Gate and Switch, you’ll have the choice of riding Tower Road (RD 3000) all the way up, or opting for singletrack with the Three Pigs (Brick, Stick, Straw, and Huff and Puff) climb. Topping out at the tower, there are no wrong choices, but one of the most frequented flow laps is Evolution to Unemployment Line to Atomic Dog. Nico Vink’s leviathan flow trail, Blue Ribbon, is a delight at any speed or, for the more tech and steeps inclined, Irish Death to Radical Dragon delivers.

During warmer months, ending at the south side parking lot is akin to the mountain biker’s tailgate, so bring your favorite beverage and stay awhile if you like—it’s also a great place to ask for some beta for your next ride. Transition Bikes, one of Bellingham’s lauded local bike brands, has its Outpost showroom, bike shop, taproom, and food truck a mile south of the parking lot for anyone who fancies an alternative aprés vibe.

Once you’ve checked off the “in-town” trails (which can easily take a few days), don’t worry, there’s so much more. The “out-of-town” trails necessitate a little more driving but offer a whole new variety of riding. Chuckanut Mountain’s Double Black Diamond and Double Down trails are likely to top anyone’s recommendation list for good reason. Located in Larrabee State Park, these sanctioned black trails are two of Bellingham’s most prized descents, beginning with views overlooking Samish Bay and descending through magical coniferous forests. A few spicy moves will challenge even experienced riders, so beginners beware and be prepared to opt out of some cruxes. If there’s daylight left after the ride, cruising down to Clayton Beach delivers an exceptional place to snack, soak up the sun, and swim on warm days.

Another regional classic is Brown Pow, located just north of Lake Whatcom on Stewart Mountain. Be prepared for a rather grueling—for its relentlessness, not technicality—climb up the Chanterelle Trail, with a scenic reprieve halfway up and a righteously fun descent awaiting at the top. Brown Pow swerves and curves along the contours of a rolling ridge as the descent goes by way too fast. You’ll be wanting more at the bottom, but know what it takes to earn it. On a hot day, jumping in Lake Whatcom afterward is simply euphoric. If you’re out this way and in need of sustenance, be sure to check out The Fork at Agate Bay, an up-scale, date-night style haunt with a sublime menu (maybe ditch the knee pads, though).

Bellingham’s southernmost riding is not to be missed either. Blanchard Mountain offers some of the most fun mixed-use and purpose-built singletrack in town, with options for everyone. Riding from the Blanchard Mountain Upper Trailhead Parking Lot, wander up the road, duck left on Alternate Incline (be prepared to push at times), and connect to Lily, Lizard Lake Loop to make your way to the top. From here, head straight back to the bottom on Rick Rolled if you enjoy steep, loamy tech; test your mettle on The Horn, arguably Bellingham’s rowdiest legal trail; or cruise the fast and flat corners of Lily, Lizard Lake Trail in a gleeful, meandering descent back to the lot. Be forewarned, Lily, Lizard Lake Trail is a popular up-route for hikers and equestrians, so please be respectful and prepare to yield right-of-way—especially on a weekend.

Dining

Breakfast

Breakfast in Bellingham might best be dictated by what time you get rollin’. If an early morning grab-and-go is your style, look no further than Avenue Bread’s Egganue sandwiches (highly recommend the rosemary English muffin, too). With tasty coffee, a plethora of baked goods for ride snacks, and three café locations (downtown, Fairhaven, and James St.), they’re a one-stop shop en route to almost any trailhead.

For those who like to sleep in on the weekends—or opt to ride before breakfast—Otherlands Beer’s Saturday and Sunday brunch offerings are pedal fuel like no other. This Euro-inspired café and taproom offers a mix of vegetarian street food and family recipe hits. In this writer’s humble opinion, a beet Reuben sandwich and craft pilsner go down smoother than even the best flow trail. And if you’re looking for a classic egg and potatoes, hotcakes, or huevos rancheros breakfast; strong, bottomless coffee; and family style vibes in the heart of downtown Bellingham, Old Town Cafe is calling. They prioritize sourcing in-season food from local growers and have options for all dietary preferences. Be prepared to wait on a weekend morning, but it’s worth it.

Lunch

Let’s not get bogged down by the myriad of opinions about lunch and simply state the facts: we all need sustenance throughout the day. So, choose whatever works best for you and get on with it. Picking up a pre-made sando and snacks at the Community Food Co-op is a guaranteed win, especially if there's a big ride in the near future. Speaking of sandwiches, Cafe Rumba has some exceptional Peruvian sanguches and specials almost every day of the week—the two-for-one deals are a no-brainer for any hungry mountain biker.

For families, foodies, and thirsty folks, Kulshan Brewing Company’s Trackside compound might be utopia. Located on Bellingham’s waterfront, the beer garden is surrounded by food trucks, pop-up maker markets, and WMBC and the Port of Bellingham’s Waterfront Pump Track, skills zone, and dirt jumps. Watching your kiddo progress on gap jumps as you sip an IPA is responsible parenting, right? This is a place with food and entertainment options for everyone, live music on summer evenings, and somewhere you’re likely to bump into old friends and meet new ones.

Dinner

For being a mountain bike town, Bellingham caters to the foodies well no matter the time of day. Carnal is a great date-night spot offering live-fire cooking with a mouth-watering selection of food and drinks. There are no wrong choices (but the Brussels sprouts are a must) and if you’re up for sharing multiple dishes, you’ll get a plethora of delicious and well-paired tastes. Just down the street, Aslan Brewpub serves up delicious organic beer and pub fare with a twist. Their bowls are saucy, waffle fries crispy, and specials always enticing. Aslan offers a tasty selection of beers (especially lagers) as well as many unique seasonals and one-of-a-kind bottle projects that any beer fanatic can nerd out on.

Bellingham’s best ’za is a heated debate among locals, so be prepared for some opinions. You can find some hand-tossed, wood-fired pies in the heart of downtown at Fiamma Pizza, plenty more authentic Italian pizza options and pasta galore at Storia Cucina, and simple-yet-classy offerings (hello Hot Morty) at Elizabeth Station, along with their impressive curated selection of canned, bottled, and on-tap beers. There’s no such thing as too many carbs after a big day of riding, right?

If you’re looking for a Bellingham rite of passage and happen to be out on Chuckanut Drive, perhaps riding Double Down, point your car south for the beautiful vistas of Samish Bay, with Taylor Shellfish Farm’s Samish Oyster Bar as your destination. Topping off an afternoon with fresh oysters, local libations, and a waterfront view is a quintessential Northwest tradition—bonus points if you have mud specks on your shirt from a loamy descent.

Nightcap

If Seattle is sleepless, Bellingham is kind of like the town that’s in bed by 8 p.m. That’s not to say there’s no nightlife, rather, you just need to be out and about earlier than you think. For a post-dinner drink, check out Chuckanut Bay Distillery’s Penny Farthing Bar for an impressive lineup of cocktails and locally made spirits. And if you’re having a night out on the town, L&L Libations is a local favorite for distinguished hits like the pomegranate Negroni and late-night crunch wraps—they’re even open ‘til midnight on Friday and Saturday. Another hidden hole-in-the-wall downtown is Ramble Tamble, where you can certainly find a drink well past when most other nooks have closed. Here, you might even stumble on a live set by Bellingham’s finest lesser-known musicians.

Bike Culture

While Bellingham is a town slightly obsessed with bikes, we have other passions as well—like craft beer. All kidding aside, though, there are so many musicians, artists, and creators who call Bellingham home and weave together this community’s vibrant culture. But, to kick it off, the bike ride-to-beer combo is a Bellingham classic, with n+1 potential options.

Along with the aforementioned breweries, Structures, Wander, Gruff, El Sueñito, Menace, Stemma, Stones Throw, Larrabee Lager, Boundary Bay Brewery, North Fork, and Beach Cat Brewing are all some of the Northwest’s finest creators of craft beer. Each one has its own flair and flavor, so you might just need to try them all to see what aligns with your taste. And for the cider fanatics, check out Bellingham Cider Co. and Lost Giants. No matter where you find yourself in town, there’s always at least one or two watering holes a short pedal away.

As for bike shops, Bellingham is rollin’ deep. There are numerous local, independently owned shops with a plethora of knowledge. Fanatik Bike Co. has a great selection of hard goods, Alleycat Bike Shop provides buttery suspension services, Alchemy Bike Shop is the wheel wizard, and Stash Cycles is your dog’s favorite bike shop. Any bike shop in town will be happy to field questions or provide recommendations, and if you’re looking for something they don’t have they’ll probably suggest a nearby shop that does.

If you’d like a little more guidance throughout your visit, check out Dig Deep Mountain Bike Tours and Intrinsic Flow Guiding and Instruction. Along with a selection of rentable rigs, they offer half-day and full-day tours for riders of all abilities. If you want a curated tour of seamlessly linked trails and local favorites, sometimes you’ve got to get a guide. Or, if you’re looking to progress your riding skills, Radical Roots MTB Instruction offers private and group skills clinics for all ability levels. 

Hidden Gems & Local Events

When in town, cruise around. Bellingham’s layout makes it extremely bikeable, whether that’s cruising the Interurban Trail between downtown and Fairhaven or rolling down Holly Street to the waterfront. Sprinkled throughout every nook and cranny are gems like artist studios, Whatcom Museum, the Pickford Film Center, NEKO Cat Cafe, Trove Cannabis, and so many more. Seek and you will find.

A few local music venues always have something to offer: check out The Shakedown for everything from metal shows to folk artists, while the Wild Buffalo House of Music is the go-to for bigger names and DJ sets. Honey Moon Mead & Cider also quite often has live music in a small, intimate setting, where you can treat your ears to everything from open mic nights to local bluegrass artists. In the heat of the summer (July 9 - August 6), Bellingham shuts down the main drag every Wednesday for Downtown Sounds, a free concert series that fills the streets with reggae, jamband, rock, and funk classics for all to enjoy.

Although, if you’re into music and riding bikes, you’ve probably already heard about an epic little weekend called Northwest Tune-Up, now heading into its fourth year. This three-day festival wraps live music, beer, bike races, and all-out summertime vibes into a whirlwind of good times. The festival raises funds for a handful of worthy local organizations and provides some of the biggest days of riding and evenings of music the town sees all year long.

Where To Stay

If you’re coming to Bellingham to ride, eat, sip, sleep, and repeat, there’s nowhere better to stay in the nucleus of it all than Hotel Leo. The historic downtown building has been restored and updated to provide modern amenities with distinguished charm. From dinner at Amendment 21, live performances in The Crystal Ballroom, and even an escape room-meets-historic-tour with Unlock the Hotel Leo, there’s an impressive amount to do in one building, and an endless amount to do within just a few blocks.

Staying a few minutes outside of downtown at The Heliotrope Hotel is another great option. Heliotrope, which means “turn toward the sun” in Greek, rings true with many south-facing rooms and a large open central patio area. They even offer a bike washing station for the muddy months and are close to many a local’s favorite food and drink establishments. Even though it’s on “the other side of town” from the trails, you can be at either trailhead within 15 minutes from leaving the parking lot. Other bike-friendly lodging options can be found at bellingham.org.